Eyelets, Facing, and Lacing Systems
The small metal rings, the panel they're set into, and the pattern the laces follow — three related parts that quietly affect fit, durability, and style.
By Ambrogio Shoes Editorial, in consultation with Ambrogio's Spain-based shoemaking team
· Updated July 9, 2026
Eyelets are the reinforced holes (often metal-rimmed) that laces pass through, the facing is the panel of the quarters where those eyelets are set, and the lacing system is the overall pattern — straight-laced, criss-cross, or otherwise — that determines how tension is distributed across the shoe. Quality eyelets resist tearing and corrosion, a well-designed facing allows a comfortable range of adjustment, and the lacing system chosen affects both the look and the practical fit of the finished shoe.
Three Related Parts
Eyelets, facing, and lacing systems work together but refer to distinct things. Eyelets are the reinforced holes, often ringed with metal, that laces pass through. The facing is the panel of the quarters where those eyelets are set and stitched. The lacing system is the overall pattern the laces follow once threaded through.
Straight Lacing vs. Criss-Cross
Straight (or bar) lacing, where laces run in clean horizontal bars rather than crossing diagonally, reads as more formal and traditional, and appears frequently on conservative Oxford styles. Criss-cross lacing is the more familiar everyday default, offering a bit more adjustability and a slightly more casual look.
Why Quality Here Is Worth Noticing
Well-reinforced eyelets resist corrosion and tearing far better than cheaper alternatives, and a thoughtfully designed facing gives the wearer real range to adjust lacing tension for a more personalized fit — small details, but ones that affect both how a shoe holds up and how comfortably it fits over years of use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do some formal dress shoes use straight (bar) lacing instead of criss-cross?
Straight lacing, where the laces run in horizontal bars rather than crossing diagonally, is often considered more formal and traditional in appearance, and is commonly seen on more conservative or dressier Oxford styles.
Can worn-out eyelets be replaced?
In many cases yes — a cobbler can often replace damaged or corroded eyelets, particularly on an otherwise well-made shoe worth maintaining, restoring both function and appearance.
Does the facing design affect how well a shoe fits?
Yes — a facing with well-placed eyelets and enough range of motion allows the wearer to adjust lacing tension for a more customized fit, particularly useful for those with a higher instep or unusual foot volume.
Why do eyelets sometimes tear away from the leather?
This typically happens when the surrounding leather or reinforcement isn't strong enough for the tension repeatedly placed on it through lacing and unlacing, which is why quality shoes reinforce the eyelet area more heavily than the surrounding facing.
Sources & further reading:
The Shoe Snob — Anatomy of a Shoe: https://www.theshoesnobblog.com/
